Let's face it, when people want a glimpse into the crystal ball of what our fashion future holds, they look to the streets of Tokyo. Always one, or 2! steps ahead of the game and with an unabashing approach to eccentric dressing, the youth of Tokyo are one of the biggest influencers when it comes to design and the fashion world today. In fact I can confirm that many of the silhouettes that I saw during my journey prior to my arrival in Japan were distinctly nipponesque. A certain drape, a gather, an asymmetry, a looseness of the garment, polka dots… Yep, all Japanese. It is the legacy of designers such as Yamamoto and Kawakubo as well as the traditional aesthetic found in Kimonos and Japanese workwear.
The youth of Tokyo fascinate us because they have a way of dressing which is unique in this world. They are not afraid to mix and match, to take fashion risks, to wear a giant stuffed animal around their neck or wear frilly shorts. They can be cozily nordic one day, and "gossip girl prep" the next. They relaunched the Boat Hat and the Breton stripe 2 years ago (made it to the western market last summer). Trends flow in and out of the city as quick as the cherry blossoms fall off the trees. Just in the 6 week period of time I was here, I saw fox tails attached to purses going from being all the rage to a sale item on a rack. The youth live and breathe fashion and it is in their way of playing with it that the rest of the world picks up cues on where to take their collections.
So here are a few trends on the street that either are completely new or are gaining such a force that I know the rest of the world will soon follow:
The Originals
- In Tokyo everything goes, but the most important thing is the improbable and to have fun.
- Men can wear skirts and hearts and still look masculine
- Don't be afraid of pattern and color and varying volumes
The New Dress Up Pant for Men: Harem
- As we saw in Hong Kong, Harem pants are a real favorite among men. I like how in Tokyo they are treating them like the new suit pants by pairing them with blazers. An edgy but elegant look.
The New Hem: Long Skirts
- Long skirts started creeping their way into New York last summer, but it was only a select early adopting few wearing them. Here they became increasingly popular even during the period of time I was in Japan. They can run the gamut from above the ankle New Look style, to gauzy floor grazers, to tiered peasant skirts. And let's face it, there's nothing more feminine than a delicate, swishy, long skirt.
I Am An Artist
- This is a new one for me: looking like the idea of an artist. Paint splattered coats, berets, drapey mixing of patterns...
Clockwork Orange
- The round melon hat, which appeared on the Hermes catwalk a couple of seasons ago is making its way onto the street
- Has a distinctly London 60s vibe to it, but more dark and brooding than Carnaby street
While in Tokyo, I also got to interview my good friend Yann Le Goec, Director and buyer of WUT Berlin in Omotesando. Yann is one of my fashion heros because he is not afraid to buy the first collection of a young designer for his store or take risks when it comes to what kind of garments he sells. As a result he has truly put WUT on the map as one of the most avant garde fashion stores in the world. In this interview he talks about why he thinks the Japanese youth dress the way they do, how the internet is essential to a fashion business today and why buyers should be fostering more creativity when it comes to designers.
On a final note, Japan has fashion hegemony right now. But as not all hegemonies last, there has been much talk of Seoul… but I'll have to reserve THAT trip for Radicant Fashion Project #2 ;-)
Fashion anthropology, trend forecasting and street style photography: bridging the interstice between fashion, art, technology, music and social/political behavior.